8vo (215 x 140 mm), pp. [x], 460, with 15 plates (one double page); original red cloth with original grey and red dust-jacket, slightly frayed and soiled; bookplate of the Association of British Members of the Swiss Alpine Club and another which notes ‘Presented to the A.B.M.S.A.C. by Egmond d’Arcis'.
US $234 €198
First edition. ‘This scholarly examination of the controversy surrounding the first ascent proved Dr. Paccard’s claims beyond doubt and provided a definitive history of the early ascents of Mont Blanc’ (Neate).
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KILIMANJARO CONQUERED: MEYER’S NARRATIVE OF HIS SUCCESSFUL ASCENT MEYER, Hans Heinrich Joseph.
Ostafrikanische Gletscherfahrten: Forschungsreisen im Kilimandscharo-Gebiet.
First edition. Hans Meyer (1858-1929), son of bookseller-turned-publisher Herrmann Julius Meyer and grandson of Joseph Meyer, the founder of the publishing house Bibliographisches Institut, built his reputation as one of the most famous explorers and mountaineers of his time especially on travels to the relatively recently defined region of German East Africa. Ostafrikanische Gletscherfahrten is Meyer’s richly-illustrated first-person account of the first successful ascent of the Kilimanjaro in 1889, some forty years after the mountain had first been identified. Meyer considered his endeavour not only valuable to science and knowledge, but he also his patriotic duty: the mountain – first discovered by German missionaries, likely to be the highest in Africa, and certainly rated the highest in German territory at the time – was to be conquered and described by a German (p. VIII). The ascent, apart from making mountaineering history, spread Meyer’s name and fame internationally. He named the Kibo peak ‘Kaiser-Wilhelm-Spitze’ (today: Uhuru peak) and presented a rock removed from the peak to emperor William II; in turn, Meyer was awarded his first professorship by the emperor.
Everest: the unfinished adventure.
First edition. ‘The 1936 expedition, the fifth to Everest and the second under Ruttledge’s leadership, was again a first-class party. It was plagued by an early monsoon and stricken with weather problems from the beginning. Finally the problem of Everest was being largely reduced to one of weather’ (Cox). Ruttledge ‘was genuinely proud to lead the young climbers he had chosen after seeking careful advice. Many of them were more experienced in hard climbing, as opposed to mountain travel, than he himself was. His companions found that to travel with Ruttledge across the high uplands was a delight, for he had a keen interest in the strange topography, in the unusual customs of hospitality and bargaining, and in the animals and birds whose lack of timidity he revelled in’ (DNB). Part I of this work is a narrative of the expedition. Part II contains chapters by members of the expedition on the weather, health, physiology, oxygen, radio communications, the collecting of specimens and the local name of Mount Everest.