Large 8vo (255 x 175 mm), pp. [xvi], 295, [1, blank], with 63 plates and two folding maps; occasional light spotting; original blue cloth; spine slightly faded.
US $234 €198
First edition. ‘The 1936 expedition, the fifth to Everest and the second under Ruttledge’s leadership, was again a first-class party. It was plagued by an early monsoon and stricken with weather problems from the beginning. Finally the problem of Everest was being largely reduced to one of weather’ (Cox). Ruttledge ‘was genuinely proud to lead the young climbers he had chosen after seeking careful advice. Many of them were more experienced in hard climbing, as opposed to mountain travel, than he himself was. His companions found that to travel with Ruttledge across the high uplands was a delight, for he had a keen interest in the strange topography, in the unusual customs of hospitality and bargaining, and in the animals and birds whose lack of timidity he revelled in’ (DNB). Part I of this work is a narrative of the expedition. Part II contains chapters by members of the expedition on the weather, health, physiology, oxygen, radio communications, the collecting of specimens and the local name of Mount Everest.
ACLC p. 267; Cox, Classics in the literature of mountaineering 35; Neate R100; Perret 3831; Salkeld & Boyle R30; Yakushi (1984) R214.
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